Washer and Dryer Repair in Salt Lake City

Won't drain. The most frequent call we take. Usually a blocked or failed drain pump, often with a sock, coin or hairpin inside it. Sometimes a kinked hose or clogged filter.

Won't spin. Lid switches on top-loaders, door latches on front-loaders, worn drive belts or a failed motor coupling.

Leaking. Door boots split and wear out on front-load machines. Inlet valves fail. Hose connections work loose over years of vibration.

Won't fill, or fills slowly. Water inlet valves are the usual cause. In this valley, hard water scaling shortens their life noticeably.

Burning smell or smoke. Stop using it and unplug it. Call us. This is usually a motor or belt problem and it isn't worth risking.

Error codes. Modern machines report faults in code. We read them, but we still diagnose by hand — the code points at a symptom, not always the cause.

Runs but won't heat. Heating elements on electric dryers, igniters or gas valves on gas dryers, or a blown thermal fuse. The fuse often blows because the vent is blocked, so we check that too.

Takes two or three cycles to dry. Almost always airflow. A clogged vent, a crushed duct behind the machine, or a long roof-vented run. Common in bench homes across the valley.

Loud rumbling or squealing. Drum rollers, idler pulleys or a worn belt.

Won't start. Door switches, thermal fuses or the start switch itself.

A blocked dryer vent makes your dryer work harder, wear faster and run hot enough to be a genuine fire risk. If your clothes take longer to dry than they used to, that's the first sign.

We check the vent on every dryer call, and we can clean it while we're there.

Worth doing yourself: go outside and look at where your dryer vent exits the house. If lint is packed around the flap, or the flap doesn't open when the dryer runs, it needs clearing.